Mountaineering course : BARRE DES ECRINS, 4102m ascent

The guide welcomes you with a coffee, a tea or a yogi tea in our premises. He/she checks the weight of your bag and equip you if you have hired equipment. Then it’s off to Ailefroide or a sunny cliff in the Durance valley for a climbing school or an easy route of several pitches, depending on the motivation and skills of the participants.

Meals and overnight in a gîte.

We take the cable car up to the Col des Ruillans (3,200 m). Exceptional views of the north faces of the Meije and Rateau. We’ll climb the Rateau Ouest (3700 m). After an approach on glacier, the second part of the route is mainly rocky, 3c/4a. We’ll be reviewing the techniques we used on the Barre des Ecrins ascent: abseiling, moving belays, placing belay points, belaying.... On the way down, we’ll do a short snow and ice school: cramponing and walk techniques on glacier..

NB: if La Grave cable car is closed (late opening, temporary closure due to weather conditions, etc.), an alternative programme will be offered for the first two days (ascent from a refuge).

Meals and overnight in a gîte.

Altitude difference: + 500 m / - 500 m. Ascent time: around 3 hours.
Total time: approximately 6 to 7 hours.

Late morning ascent from Ailefroide to the Ecrins hut (3170m). A good path takes us to the Glacier Blanc refuge. At an altitude of around 2900m, we step onto the glacier to reach the vast glacial plateau from where we can see the Dôme and the Barre des Ecrins.

Overnight at the Ecrins refuge.

Ascent: + 1400 m. Ascent time: around 5 hours.

Departure before 4am for the summit of the Massif des Ecrins (4102m) via the normal route of the Dôme des Ecrins. At the Brèche Lory, a short icy section take us to the ridge edge. The rest of the itinerary follows the ridge on a rocky or mixed terrain up to the summit, the highest point in the Ecrins massif.
Return to the valley in the late afternoon.

Altitude difference: + 1100 m /- 2200 m. Ascent time: 5 hours.
Total stage time: approximately 9 to 10 hours.

End of our tripin late afternoon in l’Argentière-la-Bessée.

NB : The programme is intended as a guide only. It could be modified at any time by the mountain guide for safety reasons, weather conditions or regarding the physical and technical level of the participants.

4 participants maximum. For the ascent of the Barre des Ecrins, two guides will be present to form two separate roped parties in accordance with the supervision standards for this ascent 1 guide for every 2 participants.Departure is guaranteed from 3 participants. You will be notified at least 7 days before departure in the event of cancellation. Where possible, an alternative solution will be offered.

If you are a group of 3 people, please contact us.

NB : For cancellation conditions for privatised trips (made up groups) please refer to our [conditions of sale->https://www.roc-ecrins.co

Equipment hire and changes to your booking are only possible before payment of the balance of your booking (45 days before departure). We advise you to take the time, upon registration, to list the equipment you already have.No equipment initially rented from ROC ECRINS and not taken or used on the day of departure will be refunded.

Important, if you have your own personal equipment: the legislation regarding P.P.I. (personal protective equipment, this is the helmet, harness, and sunglasses) limits the use of the equipment over time. They can be used for 5 years from the date of purchase. Beyond this date, your equipment is considered to no longer be up to standard. You can find all the information regarding P.P.E. here > www.inrs.fr

Headwear

At high altitudes, snow reflects UV rays and the sun’s rays are not as well filtered by the atmosphere; even a cloudy sky allows 90% of UV rays to pass through, so it is essential to protect yourself against the dangers of the sun.

• A pair of class 4 protection sunglasses is highly recommended for everyone and very strongly recommended for sensitive eyes. They’ll come in handy on a ski holiday too.
• Sun cream high protection (index 50 recommended) for face and lips; remember to take the smallest size possible (no large tubes)
• a cap for the approach walk (prefer a soft model with no large seams that can be worn under the helmet)
• a ski mask (indispensable in case of gusts of wind or snowfall)
• a beanie hat that can be worn under the helmet (without pompoms)
• a helmet* approved for mountaineering ( 5 years max since date of purchase)
• a neck gaiters or Buff(avoid scarves)
• a headlamp with loaded batteries!!!

Bodywear

When making a prolonged effort at altitude, the principle is to be able to layer different garments according to the intensity of the effort and the weather conditions (temperature, wind, snowfall, rain), in order to stay as dry as possible.

NB: ski clothes are not suitable because they are often too warm, too heavy and not very breathable.

Upper body

• First layer: a long-sleeve base layer in a breathable, quick-drying material such as merino, wood fibre..., cotton to be avoided(to protect you from UV rays and for safety in the event of a fall).
  Second layer: a lightweight fleece or soft shell jacket*. Ideally, it should be windproof and breathable. Put it on as soon as the temperature cools, usually when you arrive on the glacier.
• Third layer: a warm, compressible down jacket (synthetic or down, -10°C protection). It will keep you warm during a long stop on the route, at the summit while you take photos, on the refuge terrace, and sometimes even while walking in very cold weather.
  Fourth layer: a gore tex* windproof jacket to protect against rain and snow. This is the waterproof jacket that keeps you dry in bad weather. It must be lightweight and breathable.
• a mountaineering harness* (5 years max from date of purchase)

Lower body

• a thin pair of tights in fleece or cotton, ideally ¾ so as not to make the socks too thick. You’ll need them in case of very cold weather, and you can put them on at the hut at the start of the ascent if necessary. You can also use it as nightwear.
• Mountaineering trousers: mountaineering trousers are water-repellent, windproof, breathable and hard-wearing. You can also take hiking or trekking trousers that aren’t too light (as long as you have a gore tex overtrouser to put over them). NB: mountaineering trousers are not available for hire
• an overtrouser* in GoreTex or equivalent material: these are very light trousers that you put over your trousers in case of rain, wind or snow. They have zips along the legs, so you can put them on quickly at any time without having to remove your shoes.

The hands

• a pair of thin gloves in fleece, softshell or leather for the climbs to the refuge.
• one pair of thicker gloves like ski gloves
• a pair of VERY WARM Mittens (if your ski gloves aren’t warm enough), which you’ll put over the thin gloves when you get to the top and for the descent.

Footwear

• Mountaineering boots* (crampon-compatible): these boots are different from hiking boots. They are rigid, which will enable you to crampon on ice while providing good support for the ankle and crampons. They must also be waterproof and offer excellent protection against the cold.
• Hiking or mountaineering socks : these should be warm and well-fitting and high enough to rise above boot level to avoid overheating. One pair is enough for a 48-hour mountain run. You can also take a pair of very light mini-socks to put on in the refuge in the evening while your pair of technical socks dry.
• a pair of crampons* with anti-boot in good condition and sharp, suitable for your boots,
• a mountaineering ice axe* light and long, suited to your height, it should almost reach the ground when in your hand with your arm extended alongside your body.
• gaiters* which will keep your feet dry in fresh snow; they also prevent crampon points catching on the bottom of your trousers.
  NB: all refuges provide slippers, so you don’t need to take extra shoes.

Guide’s tip for 48-hour tours: as most of the time the refuge is reached on footpaths, you can plan to go up and down in trail trainers (soles with crampons) to protect your feet from the heat that can be caused by the rigidity of mountaineering boots (you’ll need to have your mountaineering boots in your bag). You can leave your trainers at the refuge before setting off on the climb and pick them up on your return.

This adds weight, but it can be very useful for those with sensitive feet - the choice is yours...

And last but not least

• Telescopic walking poles* with snow washers (8 cm minimum diameter ). Not compulsory but highly recommended; they will help you on the way up and take the strain off your knees on the way down.
• water : make sure you have enough water for around 2 litres, ideally a one-litre plastic bottle plus smaller ones (around 25 cl) to keep warm and close to your body in your jacket. Water bags are not suitable for use at high altitude because they freeze! You can use them, but only when going up to the refuge.
• energy food (cereal bars, dried fruit...depending on your habits),
• small thermos 500ML max (not compulsory, a hot drink can be comforting but it adds weight...)
• camera: prefer a small size that you can slip into your pocket, no need to bring a large camera that risks being damaged. Besides, with the cold the battery would be empty very quickly.
• small first aid kit adapted to your personal needs, also containing elastoplast and double-skin dressings for any blisters. If you are taking medication, take only the number of tablets you need. Pack a few paracetamol tablets as it’s not uncommon to suffer from headaches when at altitude.
• micro Toilet Bag: just the bare essentials (toothbrush, mini tube of toothpaste...) and, very important, earplugs for a good night’s sleep in the refuge.
• a bed liner (meat bag): compulsory for nights in refuges. All the refuges are providing pillows and duvets but these are obviously not washed after each passage.
• a bin bag to isolate your wet stuff in case of rain or a waterproof overbag.
• documents always useful to have with you in a small waterproof bag: ID proof, references of your assistance insurance if you haven’t taken out the policy we offer.
• A small amount of cash for personal expenses (drinks, etc.) in the refuges (most of the refuges don’t accept payment by credit card).

And remember, all of the above must fit into:

• A mountain rucksack* of around 35 litres (40 litres max) with ice axe holder and chest strap. The filled rucksack should not exceed 10 kg, including technical equipment (crampons, harness, helmet). Remember that weight is the mountaineer’s enemy. Once you’ve packed your rucksack, there should still be room for a picnic!

You should also bring a second bag (such as a soft travel bag) to store the items you don’t need for the nights at the refuge and to leave in your car.

ROC ECRINS proposes for sale equipment adapted to your activity and your stay DIRECTLY on our premises in L’Argentière-La Bessée where we will welcome you on the first day . Don’t hesitate to ask us for advice or ask your guide on site.

BRANDS ON SALE :

• BEAL (Climbing and mountaineering harnesses, slings, descenders, carabiners, quickdraws, belay gloves, ice pins, climbing bags, headlamps, mountaineering helmets and climbing helmets, single ropes and abseiling ...)
• CAMP (Climbing and mountaineering axes, liquid chalk and chalk)
• SALEWA (Mountaineering shoes)
• CASSIN (Mountaineering crampons)
• ALTITUDE EYEWEAR (Sunglasses category 3 & 4)
• YYVERTICAL (Climbing safety glasses)
• NATURAL PEAK (Technical T-shirts in wood fibre, long and short sleeves and leggings)
• ICEBREAKER (Merino wool technical T-shirts, long and short sleeves and leggings)
• DYNAFIT (Ski touring boots, used and new ski touring skis)
• LES BATONS D’ALAIN (Hiking poles and ski touring)
• LABORATOIRE BIARRITZ (ecological sun cream, body, face & lips)
• COMPEED (Double skin plaster to prevent blisters ...)
• BOULES QUIESS (Ear plugs for a good night’s sleep in a refuge...)

The ascent of the Barre des Ecrins is a high mountain route requiring mountaineering skills. The route can be vertiginous and exposed to natural hazards: falling seracs, rockfalls, crevasses, avalanches. Above 4000 m, weather conditions can be extreme. Wind, snow and cold can make the climb impossible.

We may therefore have to modify the programme of our high mountain holidays before or during the stay for various reasons:

• if the weather and/or snow conditions make it impossible to carry out the planned programme and/or
• if there is a delay in the opening or early closure of a ski lift or refuge

In these cases, we will offer you an alternative programme, sometimes on the day of departure, which you may not refuse.

Conditions in high mountain change throughout the summer and these changes can sometimes alter the supervision standards for each ascent. The supervision standards define the number of people that the mountain guide can supervise for each route and that standard can be modified during the season.
These changes may affect the price of the trip or the programme. Your registration for one of our trips or ascents means that you understand and accept this possibility.

Mountaineering practice exposes to random but real hazards, especially avalanches, rock falls, falls into crevasses and very low temperatures....To limit these risks, it is essential to follow the safety instructions given by the guide. You must be aware of these risks and accept them when you book a trip with us.

No medical certificate required to take part in our trips, but it may be useful to check with your doctor that you have no contraindications (particularly in the case of chronic illness) to physical activity in the high mountains.

If you are undergoing any particular treatment, please let us know so that we can take appropriate measures if necessary.

Altitude can cause acute mountain sickness when you are not sufficiently acclimatised, also known as AMS. In most cases, it is accompanied by headaches, nausea and a general feeling of discomfort, but in the most serious cases it can lead to pulmonary or cerebral oedema, requiring an immediate descent.

That’s why it’s always a good idea, before any ascent or high altitude stay wherever possible, to do some hiking in the mountains or medium mountains, especially for those who live at sea level.

The ascent of the Barre des Ecrins is reserved for experienced mountaineers. That means to have :

• an excellent physical condition: be able to walk at 300m vertical drop per hour at altitude as you will need to be fast, able to rush yourself and walk at a rapid pace up to the summit to spend as little time as possible under the ice seracs.
• confirmed technical skills : mastery of the equipment, roping up, front-point cramponing, use of the traction ice axe in order to be efficient and active in the rope party.
• experience of several mountaineering ascents: to have made at least one ascent in a glaciated area, in order to be able to understand the objective dangers of the route, particularly falling seracs, and to be fully aware of the implications of the decision to attempt the ascent.

By state-certified mountain guides or trainees mountain guides (aspirant guides) from the Roc Écrins team. They will have a VHF radio connected to the emergency services, a satellite phone or a mobile phone. They will also have a collective first-aid kit.

*A trainee mountain guide is a guide in training who is authorised to work and supervise climbs from their third year of training. They are not beginners, as it takes several years of practice and training to build up a list of routes and have the experience and technical level required to enter the mountain guide training course.

To take part in one of our stays, you must be properly insured for the chosen activity (rescue and repatriation costs) in the event of an incident or accident occurring during the stay. (We strongly recommend that this also includes cancellation cover). It is your responsibility to check the cover provided by your personal insurance policy. If you do not have such an insurance, you can take out the EUROP ASSISTANCE contract when you sign up. The amount of the "ASSISTANCE" insurance covering repatriation, rescue and search costs represents 2.4% of the price of the stay. MULTIRISK" insurance covering assistance, cancellation, loss of luggage and interruption of holiday, represents 5.6% of the price of the holiday.

The first two evenings, in a gite in the valley. Overnight stays in shared rooms. Home cooking with mountain specialities and some good traditional recipes will be on offer.

The Ecrins refuge (3170 m) will welcome us for our third night. This CAF refuge was built between 1968 and 1969 on the same site as the 1903 Caron refuge. In the glacier Blanc cirque, between the Émile Pic and Roche Faurio passes, you’ll have a front row seat to admire the sunset over our goal, the Barre des Ecrins, the highest point in the massif at 4102m. Overnight accommodation in a dormitory (blankets provided, bring your own sheets), shared toilets and washbasins, no showers. Hearty meals and picnics at lunchtime.

Transport provided by Roc Écrins. If none of our vehicles are available, we may ask you to organise car pooling with other participants. In this case, travel expenses would be refunded to the person using their vehicle.

That’s the CO2 produced by our travels during your stay!

To join us :

Why not car pool or take the train ?

For information:

• Paris - L’Argentière-La Bessée (710km) by overnight train !

1. By train : 2,53 kgCo2
2. By car : 137 kg CO2
3. By electric car : 14,1 kgCO2

• Lyon - L’Argentière-La Bessée (250 km)

1. By train : 1,22 kgCo2
2. By car : 48,4 kg CO2
3. By electric car : 4,96 kgCO2

• Marseille - L’Argentière-La Bessée (259km)

1. By train : 0,88 kgCo2
2. By car : 50,1 kgCO2
3. By electric car : 5,13 kg CO2

Carpooling ? We can put you in touch with other participants. Contact us by email or telephone. https://www.blablacar.fr/

Offset your carbon emissions !

For every tree planted, 150 kg of CO2 are stored !
https://www.reforestaction.com/plan...

The Pays des Ecrins region has excellent transport links.

If you’re coming by train,

The SNCF provides direct daily services from Paris, Marseille and Grenoble to L’Argentière-la-Bessée station.
PLEASE NOTE: the Pays des Ecrins station is called "L’Argentière les Ecrins". You must specify the full name of the station when booking, otherwise you may receive a ticket for "l’Argentière" station in Savoie.

• TGV connection, Paris-Turin. Get off at Oulx then take the shuttle ( www.linkbus-alps.com ) to Briançon and l’Argentière.
• TGV connection, Paris-Valence or Paris-Grenoble with bus connections (www.vfd.fr -04 76 60 47 08)
• Night trains from Paris and the east of France. Information www.sncf.fr
• from Nice, Marseille or Gap, regular bus services (www.autocars-scal.fr - 04 92 51 06 05)

If you are coming by car,

• From the north, take the A48 motorway to Grenoble, then the Col du Lautaret (RN91). Drive through Briançon towards Gap. You enter the Pays des Écrins from Saint-Martin de Queyrières.

• From Italy, take the A43 Maurienne motorway through the Fréjus tunnel, then the Col de Montgenèvre. Drive through Briançon towards Gap.

• From the south, take the A51 motorway to La Saulce, then head for Briançon (RN 94). You enter the Pays des Écrins at La Roche de Rame.

• Mountain guiding service , including their meals, overnight accommodation
• Full board accommodation in mountain hut from the evening on day 1 to the lunch on day 4
• Cable car pass on day 2
• Transport during the stay
• General organisation and bookings (accommodation, guide, equipment) of your stay

• We welcome you to our premises for a cup of coffee or tea and equip you on site
• Free parking is available at the meeting point
• You can take a shower at the end of your stay
• You have free access to a relaxation area with Wifi, toilets, microwave, etc. while you wait for your train (5 minutes’ walk from the station)
• You can leave a bag with your personal belongings on the ROC ÉCRINS premises during your stay
• You will receive a 10% discount on our entire sales area (ROC ÉCRINS customers only)

Lorsque nous allons en montagne, nous sortons de la société que nous connaissons pour
nous retrouver dans un milieu encore un peu épargné par les activités humaine.
La montagne est singulière puisqu’elle est le symbole d’une liberté. En effet c’est un lieu où
quiconque peut s’exprimer, gravir, sauter, glisser, vivre, partager et plus encore. Que notre
objectif soit un sommet, une ligne ou simplement la découverte des paysages, nous
profitons tous d’un moment privilégié avec la Nature.
Pour garder cet espace de vie aussi beau et le conserver il faut aussi en prendre soin et
savoir vivre avec tous les acteurs de la montagne.

UN ENVIRONNEMENT FRAGILE, pour le préserver quelques simples règles de bonne
conduite : rester sur les sentiers, ne rien prélever, ne rien jeter et se faire discret tant vis à vis
de la faune qu’à l’égard des autres randonneurs et alpinistes. La montagne est l’un des
derniers lieux silencieux, et ce silence est un trésor à chérir, à respecter et à partager!

EN MONTAGNE, vous ferez cordée avec votre guide, vos amis ou d’autres personnes que
vous ne connaissez pas, tous unis par un même objectif.
L’entre-aide est de mise, au sein du groupe mais aussi vis à vis de quiconque aurait besoin
d’aide. Pensez au sens de « circulation » : Ceux qui descendent laissent passer ceux qui
montent.

EN REFUGE aussi, il est important de respecter certaines règles de savoir-vivre pour
garantir une cohabitation harmonieuse. Vous devrez vous déchausser pour monter dans les
dortoirs, des crocs sont prévus à cet effet.
N’oubliez pas que les réveils sont en général très matinaux alors soyez discret. Au réveil, il
est d’usage de plier sa couverture.

Au moment du DÉBRIEFFING de la journée, il est d’usage d’offrir un verre au groupe
pour apaiser les moments de doutes, de peurs, et/ou fêter le sommet, revivre les moments
forts, drôle et joyeux de la journée. Et, si le coeur vous en dit, à la fin de votre séjour, vous
pouvez remercier votre guide avec un petit pourboire, une tradition ancienne mais bien sûr
non obligatoire.

To book your trip :

• complete the pre-registration form online
• You will receive a booking contract by email. It sets out the details of your booking as well as the schedule and payment terms.
• On receipt of this contract, the deposit of 30% must be payed within 4 days in accordance with the terms and conditions set out in the contract. Your registration can only be confirmed when the deposit has been payed.
• The balance must be paid 45 days before the departure. Please note that any balance not paid within 45 days of departure will be considered as a cancellation of your booking. Financial withholding would therfore be applied in accordance with our terms and conditions of sale.
• For a of a booking made less than 45 days before departure, the total amount of the booking must be paid on receipt of the booking contract in accordance with the terms and conditions set out therein.