MONT BLANC ascent in 3 days via TÊTE ROUSSE ET GOÛTER huts 2024

Meet up with the guide. We check your bags together and collect any hired equipment. You must be wearing mountaineering outfit when you arrive with your rucksack ready.
We take the Les Houches cable car then board the Mont-Blanc tramway which will take us up to the eagle’s nest at 2372m. The ascent of Mont Blanc then begins.... On a good path among ibex and marmots, we’ll climb gently towards the Tête Rousse refuge. We’ll have a picnic on our way to the refuge. From the hut, you can follow the route to the Goûter hut.

Meal and overnight stay at the Tête Rousse hut at 3167m.

Altitude difference : + 800m. Ascent time : 3 hours approx.

NB: before mid-June and after mid-September, the Mont Blanc tramway is closed. The ascent is still possible but this add 580m to the positive elevation to reach the Tête Rousse refuge, i.e. a total of 1367m on the first day.

For this day, we have two options:

The first one is to leave le refuge at night in order to climb Mont-Blanc in the daytime. This requires two conditions : your physical condition is good enough and weather conditions remain stable during the day. This option allows us to go though the Goûter couloir at a time when the night-time refreezing limits the risk of rock falls. We’d also avoid meeting other roped parties on the Goûter ridge. And finally, we’d be climbing during the daytime, the milder temperatures making the ascent more enjoyable and limiting the risk of frostbite.

The second option is to make the ascent over 2 days. We take our time to slowly climb the 500 meters up to the Goûter hut where we spend the rest of the day. The main benefit of this option is to keep your in good shape to reach the summit and give yourself the best possible chance for the next day. Beyond the Tête Rousse hut, roped up, helmeted and with crampons on, we quickly pass through the Goûter couloir. We’ll then climb the Goûter ridge, sometimes in snow and rock, to reach the refuge, 3817m, where we’ll spend the night.

Altitude différence : + 1645m / - 995m. Around 8 to 9 hours. (option 1)
Altitude différence : + 500m. Around 4 hours (option 2)

• In the case of option 1: back to the valley in the morning

• Option 2: the day starts at 3 a.m in the middle of the night! Slowly but surely you’ll climb the Dôme du Goûter, then the Col du Dôme to the Vallot hut-bivouac at 4362m. After a break sheltered from the wind and cold, we’ll head off towards the Bosses ridge to reach the 4810-metre summit of Mont-Blanc. From the summit, the Alpine arc unfurls its fantastic jagged spine. A cautious descent to the Goûter hut, where we’ll refuel before heading back down to the valley. Hot meal at the Tête Rousse refuge or in a restaurant in Le Houches.

End of our trip at Les Houches after returning the equipment hired.
Most of the time, the return to the valley takes place between 1pm and 5pm.

Altitude différence : : - 1450m. (Option 1) ; + 1000m. / -2570m. (Option 2)

NB: We are offering an original ROC ÉCRINS "Summitter Mont Blanc" t-shirt for sale.

The programme is intended as a guide only. It could be modified at any time by the mountain guide for safety reasons, weather conditions or regarding the physical and technical level of the participants. If the ascent is not possible for weather or safety reasons, the guide would propose an alternative summit in a massif where the conditions are better (Gran Paradiso Paradis 4061m or Monte Rosa 4272m, for example).

Please notice that by booking this trip, you are agreeing to take part in a 3-day mountaineering programme, with the aim of attempting an ascent of Mont Blanc, BUT you are also agreeing to accept any changes to the programme (made necessary by current conditions) during or before the course.

We will do all our best to make your ascent of the roof of the Alps a success but please note that the purpose of this stay is not to prepare you physically, you must arrive trained, in very good physical condition and acclimatised.
For your acclimatisation, we recommend that you spend at least one night in an altitude refuge (between 2000 and 2500 metres minimum) in the 4 days prior to your ascent. It is the time spent at altitude that will enable your body to acclimatise more than the altitude itself. We can advise you on routes and refuges suited to your preparation.

2 participants minimum/maximum.

The departure is guaranteed from 2 participants. You will be notified at least 7 days before departure in the event of cancellation. Where possible, an alternative solution will be offered.

NB: For cancellation conditions for privatised trips (made up groups) please refer to our conditions of sale->https://www.roc-ecrins.com/conditions-de-ventes-3.html

Personal equipment

Hiking in high mountain requires being able to cope with all weather and environmental conditions which can change very quickly. Appropriate equipment guarantees safety and represents an essential part of the success and comfort of your climb/stay.}
You will not necessarily use all the items on this list which may seem impressiv but you must nevertheless have them in your bag.

All of this equipment is technical and generally quite expensive. Please note that we offer some of this equipment for rental, they are indicated by a * in the list below, you will find rental prices in the "Option prices" section. Please note, the mountaineering kit that we offer for rental only includes individual technical equipment (mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet); clothing (gore tex jacket, soft shell fleece, goretex pants) are not part of it.

Equipment hire and changes to your booking are only possible before payment of the balance of your booking (45 days before departure). We advise you to take the time, upon registration, to list the equipment you already have.Any equipment initially rented from ROC ECRINS even not taken or used on the day of departure will not be refunded.

Important, if you are equipped with your personal equipment: the legislation regarding P.P.I. (personal protective equipment, this is the helmet, harness, and sunglasses) limits the use of the equipment over time. They can be used for 5 years from the date of purchase. Beyond this date, your equipment is considered to no longer be up to standard. You can find all the information regarding P.P.E. here > www.inrs.fr

Headwear

At high altitudes, snow reflects UV rays and the sun’s rays are not as well filtered by the atmosphere; even a cloudy sky allows 90% of UV rays to pass through, so it is essential to protect yourself against the dangers of the sun.

• A pair of class 4 protection sunglasses is highly recommended for everyone and very strongly recommended for sensitive eyes. They’ll come in handy on a ski holiday too.
• Sun cream high protection (index 50 recommended) for face and lips; remember to take the smallest size possible (no large tubes)
• a cap for the approach walk (prefer a soft model with no large seams that can be worn under the helmet)
• a ski mask (indispensable in case of gusts of wind or snowfall)
• a beanie hat that can be worn under the helmet (without pompoms)
• a helmet* approved for mountaineering ( 5 years max since date of purchase)
• a neck gaiters or Buff(avoid scarves)
• a headlamp with loaded batteries!!!

Bodywear

When making a prolonged effort at altitude, the principle is to be able to layer different garments according to the intensity of the effort and the weather conditions (temperature, wind, snowfall, rain), in order to stay as dry as possible.

NB: ski clothes are not suitable because they are often too warm, too heavy and not very breathable.

Upper body

• First layer: a long-sleeve base layer in a breathable, quick-drying material such as merino, wood fibre..., cotton to be avoided(to protect you from UV rays and for safety in the event of a fall).
  Second layer: a lightweight fleece or soft shell jacket*. Ideally, it should be windproof and breathable. Put it on as soon as the temperature cools, usually when you arrive on the glacier.
• Third layer: a warm, compressible down jacket (synthetic or down, -10°C protection). It will keep you warm during a long stop on the route, at the summit while you take photos, on the refuge terrace, and sometimes even while walking in very cold weather.
  Fourth layer: a gore tex* windproof jacket to protect against rain and snow. This is the waterproof jacket that keeps you dry in bad weather. It must be lightweight and breathable.
• a mountaineering harness* (5 years max from date of purchase)

Lower body

• a thin pair of tights in fleece or cotton, ideally ¾ so as not to make the socks too thick. You’ll need them in case of very cold weather, and you can put them on at the hut at the start of the ascent if necessary. You can also use it as nightwear.
• Mountaineering trousers: mountaineering trousers are water-repellent, windproof, breathable and hard-wearing. You can also take hiking or trekking trousers that aren’t too light (as long as you have a gore tex overtrouser to put over them). NB: mountaineering trousers are not available for hire
• an overtrouser* in GoreTex or equivalent material: these are very light trousers that you put over your trousers in case of rain, wind or snow. They have zips along the legs, so you can put them on quickly at any time without having to remove your shoes.

The hands

• a pair of thin gloves in fleece, softshell or leather for the climbs to the refuge.
• one pair of thicker gloves like ski gloves
• a pair of VERY WARM Mittens (if your ski gloves aren’t warm enough), which you’ll put over the thin gloves when you get to the top and for the descent.

Footwear

• Mountaineering boots* (crampon-compatible): these boots are different from hiking boots. They are rigid, which will enable you to crampon on ice while providing good support for the ankles. They must also be waterproof and offer excellent protection against the cold.
• Hiking or mountaineering socks : these should be warm and well-fitting and high enough to rise above boot level to avoid overheating. One pair is enough for a 48-hour mountain run. You can also take a pair of very light mini-socks to put on in the refuge in the evening while your pair of technical socks dry.
• a pair of crampons* with anti-boot in good condition and sharp, suitable for your boots,
• a mountaineering ice axe* light and long, suited to your height, it should almost reach the ground when in your hand with your arm extended alongside your body.
• gaiters* which will keep your feet dry in fresh snow; they also prevent crampon points catching on the bottom of your trousers.
  NB: all refuges provide slippers, so you don’t need to take extra shoes.

Guide’s tip for 48-hour tours: as most of the time the refuge is reached on footpaths, you can plan to go up and down in trail trainers (soles with crampons) to protect your feet from the heat that can be caused by the rigidity of mountaineering boots (you’ll need to have your mountaineering boots in your bag). You can leave your trainers at the refuge before setting off on the climb and pick them up on your return.
This adds weight, but it can be very useful for those with sensitive feet - the choice is yours...

And last but not least

• Telescopic walking poles* with snow washers (8 cm minimum diameter ). Not compulsory but highly recommended; they will help you on the way up and take the strain off your knees on the way down.
• water : make sure you have enough water for around 2 litres, ideally a one-litre plastic bottle plus smaller ones (around 25 cl) to keep warm and close to your body in your jacket. Water bags are not suitable for use at high altitude because they freeze! You can use them, but only when going up to the refuge.
• energy food (cereal bars, dried fruit...depending on your habits),
• small thermos 500ML max (not compulsory, a hot drink can be comforting but it adds weight...)
• camera: prefer a small size that you can slip into your pocket, no need to bring a large camera that risks being damaged. Besides, with the cold the battery would be empty very quickly.
• small first aid kit adapted to your personal needs, also containing elastoplast and double-skin dressings for any blisters. If you are taking medication, take only the number of tablets you need. Pack a few paracetamol tablets as it’s not uncommon to suffer from headaches when at altitude.
• micro Toilet Bag: just the bare essentials (toothbrush, mini tube of toothpaste...) and, very important, earplugs for a good night’s sleep in the refuge.
• a sack sheet (meat bag): compulsory for nights in refuges. All the refuges are providing pillows and duvets but these are obviously not washed after each passage.
• a bin bag to isolate your wet stuff in case of rain or a waterproof overbag.
• documents always useful to have with you in a small waterproof bag: ID proof, references of your assistance insurance if you haven’t taken out the policy we offer.
• Cash for personal expenses (drinks, etc.) in the refuges (very few refuges accept payment by credit card).

And remember, all of the above must fit into:

• A mountain rucksack* of around 35 litres (40 litres max) with ice axe holder and chest strap. Your rucksack should not exceed 10 kg, including technical equipment (crampons, harness, helmet). Remember that weight is the mountaineer’s enemy. Once you’ve packed your rucksack, there should still be room for a picnic!

You should also bring a second bag (such as a soft travel bag) in which you can leave any items you don’t need for the nights in the refuge and which you can leave in your car.

3 conditions for a successful ascent: Weather + Good shape + Experience

Weather

Mont-Blanc ascent is a high-mountain route requiring mountaineering skills. The route can be vertiginous and exposed to natural hazards: rock falls, crevasses, avalanches.
Above 4,000 metres, the weather conditions can be extreme: wind, snow and cold can make the climb dangerous and so impossible. Our priority will always be safety. The mountain guide who accompanies you knows perfectly the Mont Blanc and is the best one to assess the feasibility of the ascent. therefore, as a last resort, he or she will decide whether or not to continue with the ascent. If it is impossible to attempt the ascent of Mont-Blanc according to the weather forecast two days before, we will organise an alternative programme in other alpine massifs.

Stamina and skills

If at the end of the first day the guide considers that your physical and/or mental condition does not allow you to envisage climbing Mont Blanc without endangering your safety and that of the group, he will inform you. You will then have to leave the group. If another participant is in the same situation as you, you then would be able to set off as rope-mates for another summit. In no case can this interruption give rise to a refund.

Programme and supervision standards

Mountaineering is subject to various factors that we can sometimes neither anticipate nor control; we may therefore have to modify the program of our high mountain holidays before or during the stay for various reasons:

• if the weather and/or snow conditions make it impossible to carry out the intended programme and/or
• if there is a delay in the opening or early closure of a ski lift or refuge,
  In these cases, we will offer you an alternative programme, sometimes on the day of departure, which you can not refuse.

Also, mountain conditions change over the summer and can sometimes alter the supervision standards for each ascent. The supervision standards define the number of people that the mountain guide can supervise for each route and can be modified during the season.
These changes may affect the price of the holiday or the programme. Your registration for one of our trips or ascents means that you understand and accept this possibility.

About the Mont-blanc ascent

To help you make your mind before you register, you should know that every year on our Mont Blanc ascent trips, approximately :

• 70% of participants reach the summit! stars in their eyes!
• 20% of the ascents are made impossible because of weather conditions. For example, very bad weather forecast from the second day ; in this case we head to another massif such as Grand Paradis massif where conditions are better. Sometimes, however, conditions change once the ascent has begun and we only can turn back, sometimes even a few hundred meters from the summit, mainly because of the wind.
• 10% of participants have to give up due to lack of training. Others are sometimes too impressed by the environnement of high mountain and the weather conditions to go on.

We do not require a medical certificate to take part in our trips, but it may be useful to check with your doctor that you have no contraindications (particularly in the case of chronic illness) to physical activity in the high mountains.

If you are undergoing any particular treatment, please let us know so that we can take appropriate measures if necessary.

Altitude can cause acute mountain sickness when you are not sufficiently acclimatised, also known as AMS. In most cases, it is accompanied by headaches, nausea and a general feeling of discomfort, but in the most serious cases it can lead to pulmonary or cerebral oedema, requiring an immediate descent.

That’s why it’s always a good idea, before any holiday at high altitude and wherever possible, to do some hiking in the mountains or medium mountains, especially for those who live at sea level.

Before registering for this stay, you should check:

• your physical condition and technical skills: to take part in this trip, you must be familiar with technical mountaineering equipment and master roped walking, crampon climbing and be able to move with ease over any terrain (snow/ice/rock) at a steady pace.

• your endurance and how speed you can walk in the mountains: to take part in this trip, you must be able to walk at 400 metres/hour in the mid-range mountains and to produce a long and intense effort at altitude (up to 14 hours on the day of the ascent). More specifically, you must be able to put up with 2400 metres of ascent (1200m positive and negative) at altitude (between 2000 and 3500m) over 48 hours with ease, i.e. with your feet as sure on the way down as on the way up.

You’d like to reach the roof of Europe, but beware: this climb is physically very demanding. You will have to cope with a long effort at altitude on the way up, without forgetting the descent which can be traumatic for ill-prepared muscles and joints.

The ascent of Mont Blanc cannot be attempted without previous experience of mountaineering. It’s a long-term project, which needs to be approached step by step, to ensure your safety and success, and being "sporty" is not enough!

How to prepare and train

You need to adapt your preparation and training according to your physical condition and your experience in the mountains.
To enhance your physical condition, the best is to practise an endurance sport regularly and intensively. Endurance sports are activities that require sustained effort, for example: running 3 times a week, with sessions lasting at least 1 and a half to 2 hours (i.e. at least 10 to 15 kilometres). Mountain biking and trail running with elevation can be endurance activities, as long as the sessions last long enough, but they are not enough on their own to prepare you.
Climbing and ice climbing can give you a better understanding of the technical aspects of mountaineering.
The best type of training is mountain walking: hikes of gradual difficulty, with progressive elevation gain (and increasing the weight of your pack!).

If you’ve never done any mountaineering or mountain walking before, you’ll need to plan your preparation in several stages.
We offer different programmes that could enable you to test yourself and/or acquire the necessary skills gradually:

To "test your physical fitness and endurance " we propose a specific course at the Sainte Victoire mountain in Provence from January onwards :
> [WEEK-END TEST DE COMPÉTENCES (Aisance physique et Endurance) POUR PRÉPARER L’ASCENSION DU MONT BLANC

To learn cramponing techniques (ice school) and take part in your first mountaineering course, including an overnight stay in a refuge :
> [2 JOURS D’INITIATION ET D’APPRENTISSAGE DE L’ALPINISME POUR PRÉPARER L’ASCENSION DU MONT BLANC
or :
> lien vers STAGE D’INITIATION A L’ALPINISME : ASCENSION DE LA ROCHE FAURIO 3730M EN 3 JOURS
To test your ability to complete a major ascent (a summit above 3500m) at an adequate pace and to cope with 2 days of effort at high altitude :
> lien vers ASCENSION ROCHE FAURIO, 3730m EN 2 JOURS

Minimum age to take part in this trip

For all the reasons detailed above, we do not accept the participation of minors on these ascents unless they are registered with a parent (who is also taking part in the stay). In this case, they must be at least 17 years old.

By state-certified mountain guides or trainees mountain guides from the Roc Écrins team. They will have a VHF radio connected to the emergency services, a satellite telephone or a mobile phone. They will also have a collective first-aid kit.

To take part in one of our stays, you must be properly insured for the chosen activity (rescue and repatriation costs) in the event of an incident or accident occurring during the stay. (We strongly recommend that this also includes cancellation cover). It is your responsibility to check the cover provided by your personal insurance policy. If you do not already have such insurance, you can take out the EUROP ASSISTANCE contract when you sign up. The amount of the "ASSISTANCE" insurance covering repatriation, rescue and search costs represents 2.4% of the price of the stay. MULTIRISK" insurance covering assistance, cancellation, loss of luggage and interruption of holiday, represents 5.6% of the price of the holiday.

We will spend the first night comfortably settled in the refuge de Tête Rousse. Refurbished 8 years ago, the refuge offers from the dining room a magnificent panorama of the Arve valley and the north face of Bionnassay . No water available at the refuge. Bottled water included in the price. Overnight in a 6-8 person dormitory.

The refuge du Goûter, the highest refuge in France will welcome you for your the second night at an altitude of 3815m. The new refuge is a High Environmental Quality (HEQ) building. Well insulated, soundproofed and spacious, you’ll feel right at home here. The view over the Arve valley and the Bionnassay ridge is fantastic and the sunset is incredible. There is no water available at the refuge. Bottled water included in the price of the stay (1.5l/person + 1 soft drink).

This accommodation is subject to availability at the time of booking.

Transports from the meeting point to the start of the climbs will be made by the participants in their own vehicles.

In the event of a change of programme, travel costs (petrol and tunnel costs) will be covered by ROC ÉCRINS (for the person using their own vehicle to carpool the group.)

That’s the amount of CO2 produced by our travels during your stay! !

For information and comparison :

• Paris - Les Houches

– by car: 170 kg CO2
– by train: 1.4 KgCo2

• Lyon - Les Houches

– by car : 64 kg CO2
– by train : 3.3 kg Co2

• Marseille - Les Houches

– by car : 130 kgCO2
– by train : 1.1 kgCo2

Carpooling ? We can put you in touch with other participants. Contact us by email or by phone. https://www.blablacar.fr/

By train,

• TGV (High speed train) Paris-Bellegarde and TGV Marseille-Lyon, connections to Les Houches by regional lines (TER)
• The SNCF line calls at all the villages from St Gervais-les-bains-le Fayet to Martigny (Switzerland) via Servoz, Les Houches, Chamonix, Argentière and Vallorcine.

by car,

• From Italy, take the A5 motorway to AOSTE, then follow roadsigns for Courmayer. Enter France through the Mont Blanc tunnel to Les Houches.
• From the South, A7 motorway to Valence, take the A49 to Voreppe, follow roadsigns for Chambery and Geneva to join the Autoroute Blanche to Les Houches.
• From the north, take the A6 motorway then the A40 to Macon, the Autoroute Blanche and the N205 to Les Houches.

If you are coming by plane,

From Geneva International Airport

• SAT bus company provides daily services between Geneva airport and Chamonix www.sat-montblanc.com
• Léman Express rail link between Geneva airport and St Gervais- Le Fayet station

• Mountain guiding service , including their meals, overnight accommodation and lift passes.
• Full board accommodation from the first evening to midday on the last day.Hot meal the last day at Tête rouse refuge or in restaurant in Valley
• Mineral water at the Tête Rousse and Goûter refuges (1.5l per person + 1.5l for 3 during the meal) as well as a soft drink at the refuge du Gouter.
• lift access

To book a trip :

• complete the pre-registration form online
• You will receive a booking contract by email. It sets out the details of your booking as well as the schedule and payment terms.
• On receipt of this contract, the deposit of 30% must be payed within 4 days in accordance with the terms and conditions set out in the contract. Your booking can only be confirmed when the deposit has been payed.
• The balance must be paid 45 days before the departure. Please note that any balance not paid within 45 days of departure will be considered as a cancellation of your booking. Financial withholding would therfore be applied in accordance with our terms and conditions of sale.
• For a of a booking made less than 45 days before departure, the total amount of the booking must be paid on receipt of the booking contract in accordance with the terms and conditions set out therein.