STAGE ESCALADE HAUTE MONTAGNE : L’AIGUILLE DIBONA from 7 September to 10 September

Technical level
Mountain range : Ecrins
4 days
2 people (2 places available)
Prices : 1180,00 €

En ouverture de ce stage d’escalade en Haute montagne, vous grimperez sur les contreforts de l’Aiguille Dibona pour prendre contact avec le granit du coin. Ensuite, une belle envolée sur l’excellent granit très coloré de la Tête du Rouget, 3418 m. Le troisième jour, découverte du magnifique itinéraire qui combine plusieurs voies conduisant au sommet de l’Aiguille Dibona par la face Sud.
Et pour finir ce voyage vertical exceptionnel, vous pourrez découvrir une voie à l’Aiguille orientale du Soreiller, 3382m, ou bien parcourir une voie un peu plus dure en versant Sud Est de la Dibona, bref, vous mettre dans les traces d’Angelo Dibona et Guido Mayer qui, les premiers, ont réalisé l’ascension par l’arête nord en 1913 et de Jacques Boell et Alain Ray qui ont ouvert la première voie difficile en versant sud en 1932.
Ce stage d’escalade en altitude demande une bonne conditions physique ainsi qu’une expérience de l’escalade en grandes voies.

Nous vous proposons aussi cette prestation en engagement privé le jour de votre choix, entre amis ou pour votre famille, prix sur demande.

Tarif 2024 en cours d’actualisation.

Your trip day to day

Day 1: ascent to the SOREILLER refuge

The guide welcomes you at our office and checks your equipment. (There are 2 meeting points depending on where you arrive.)
From the hamlet of Les Etages, we’ll head for the refuge du Soreiller, 2719 m, a climb of 1150 m, approximately 4 hours’ walk.
Climbing in the foothills of the Aiguille Dibona to get to grips with the local granite; 5-pitch routes, 5c/6a, a 5-minute walk from the refuge.

Meal and overnight at the Soreiller refuge.

Day 2: LA TÊTE DU ROUGET

A day on the excellent and very colourful granite at the Tête du Rouget, 3418 m. The route "Version Originale" facing west is a fairly steep equipped route with surprising holds, sculpted with grooves and crimps: 300m 5 / 5+. Abseil down the route. 40mn approach walk . A 9-hour climbing day.

Meal and overnight at the Soreiller refuge.

Day 3: LA DIBONA

Discover the magnificent route which combines several routes leading to the summit of the Aiguille Dibona via the South face: Berthet-Boell-sept d’un coup-stoffer. This route will offer you the best in this level of the south face of the Dibona. The 13 pitches over 350 metres combine slabs, dihedrals, ridges and traverses on sculpted rock of consistently high quality. The route is partially equipped with pegs. 5c max. 5-minute approach walk. Descent with 2 abseils, then 1 hour’s walk back to the refuge. A good 8-hour day.

Meal and night at the Soreiller hut.

Day 4: AIGUILLE ORIENTALE DU SOREILLER

On the last day, depending on your motivation and fitness, you will have the choice of either discovering a route on the Aiguille orientale du Soreiller, 3382m, 5+ / 200m, or climbing a slightly harder route on the south-east side of the Dibona, 6a / 300m.

End of our trip, at the hamlet of Les Etages around 6pm (drop-off possible at the Argentière-les-Ecrins SNCF station).

NB : The programme is intended as a guide only. It could be modified at any time by the mountain guide for safety reasons, weather conditions or regarding the physical and technical level of the participants.

Teaching

You will review the climbing techniques on long routes to update and strengthen your skills for maximum safety and fluidity in the roped party during the climbs. We’ll go over the different types of roping depending on the configuration of the routes, and the techniques for belaying on the move or belaying from a belay station. The emphasis will be on the quality of the belay to be adapted according to the the terrain. Abseiling and self-jamming techniques will also be covered. The guide will give you tips on how to organise the equipment on your harness. We’ll agree on how to communicate within the group to give clear instructions.

min/max people

2 participants maximum. Departure is guaranteed from 2 participants. You will be notified at least 7 days before departure in the event of cancellation. Where possible, an alternative solution will be offered.

NB : For cancellation conditions for privatised trips (made up groups) please refer to our conditions of sale.

Equipment : gear and clothing

Personal equipment

Please note that we offer some of this equipment for rental, they are indicated by a * in the list below, you will find rental prices in the "Gear rental and extras prices" section.

Equipment rental and changes are only possible before payment of the balance of your booking (45 days before departure). We advise you to take the time, as soon as you register, to list the equipment you have or which can be lent to you. Any equipment initially rented from ROC ECRINS even not taken on the day of departure must be paid for.

Feel free to bring any gear you already have but bear in mind that legislation regarding I.P.E. (personal protective equipment, in this case helmets, harnesses and sunglasses) limits the use of equipment over time. They can be used for 5 years from the date of purchase. After this date, your equipment is no longer considered to be up to standard. For more information on E.P.I., click here > www.inrs.fr

The head

  • One pair of sunglasses* protection class 2 or 3
  • A cap
  • A helmet*

Hands

  • A pair of leather mittens, such as cycling or sailing gloves for abseiling and belaying.

Bodywear

  • A long sleeves undershirt, fleece or soft shell jacket
  • A Gore-tex jacket offering waterproof protection
  • A pair of warm or light climbing trousers depending on the weather

Technical equipment

  • A climbing harness*
  • a lock biner* and a 40cm sling*
  • Quickdraws and other equipment that you wish to use or learn how to use
  • A pair of comfortable climbing shoes*
  • Daypack * (large enough for spare clothing, your lunch & personal climbing gear, approx 35L)
  • a small backpack (8-10L) to take the minimum you need on the route

And last but not least...

  • Water containers, ideally a one-litre bottle plus smaller ones to slip into the bag.
  • Small knife
  • Camera
  • Small first-aid kit adapted to your personal needs, also containing elastoplast and double-skin dressings for any blisters.

This list is not exhaustive and should be completed with all what you may specifically need.

ROC ECRINS proposes for sale equipment adapted to your activity and your stay DIRECTLY on our premises in L’Argentière-La Bessée where we will welcome you on the first day . Don’t hesitate to ask us for advice or ask your guide on site.

BRANDS ON SALE :

  • BEAL (Climbing and mountaineering harnesses, slings, descenders, carabiners, quickdraws, belay gloves, ice pins, climbing bags, headlamps, mountaineering helmets and climbing helmets, single ropes and abseiling ...)
  • CAMP (Climbing and mountaineering axes, liquid chalk and chalk)
  • SALEWA (Mountaineering shoes)
  • CASSIN (Mountaineering crampons)
  • ALTITUDE EYEWEAR (Sunglasses category 3 & 4)
  • YYVERTICAL (Climbing safety glasses)
  • NATURAL PEAK (Technical T-shirts in wood fibre, long and short sleeves and leggings)
  • ICEBREAKER (Merino wool technical T-shirts, long and short sleeves and leggings)
  • DYNAFIT (Ski touring boots, used and new ski touring skis)
  • LES BATONS D’ALAIN (Hiking poles and ski touring)
  • LABORATOIRE BIARRITZ (ecological sun cream, body, face & lips)
  • COMPEED (Double skin plaster to prevent blisters ...)
  • BOULES QUIESS (Ear plugs for good nights in refuges...)

High mountain : special warning

Multi-pitch climbing is a more exposed sport than cliff climbing. In addition to the risk of falling or falling rocks, in the event of bad weather or injury, the retreat can be tricky. That’s why you need to be at the right level for the course. Rigour and attention to detail are essential.

Climbing : special warning

Rock climbing, as all mountain activities have some level of risk particularly falling rocks, falling to the ground (failure to belay), etc.
To reduce the hazards that they are exposed to, climbers must wear their helmet at the foot of the cliffs, while climbing and belaying, and follow the safety instructions given by the instructor.

You must be aware of these risks and accept them when booking.

Skills and stamina level

With rather long days (up to 9 hours), and routes of 10 to 11 pitches (350m), this trip requires very good physical condition. It’s aimed at regular climbers who are comfortable with 1200m ascents.

The ascent of the Dibona is rated D (Difficult) and is aimed at climbers with experience of long routes.
Be able to climb between 5c/6a in head. Ability to abseil and down-climbing.

Guiding

By state-certified mountain guides or trainees mountain guides (aspirant guides) from the Roc Écrins team. They will have a VHF radio connected to the emergency services, a satellite phone or a mobile phone. They will also have a collective first-aid kit.

*A trainee mountain guide is a guide in training who is authorised to work and supervise climbs from their third year of training. They are not beginners, as it takes several years of practice and training to build up a list of routes and have the experience and technical level required to enter the mountain guide training course.

Insurances

To take part in one of our stays, you must be properly insured for the chosen activity (rescue and repatriation costs) in the event of an incident or accident occurring during the stay. (We strongly recommend that this also includes cancellation cover). It is your responsibility to check the cover provided by your personal insurance policy. If you do not have such an insurance, you can take out the EUROP ASSISTANCE contract when you sign up. The amount of the "ASSISTANCE" insurance covering repatriation, rescue and search costs represents 2.4% of the price of the stay. MULTIRISK" insurance covering assistance, cancellation, loss of luggage and interruption of holiday, represents 5.6% of the price of the holiday.

Accommodation

You will be welcomed by Martine and Marie at the Soreiller refuge, at the foot of the Aiguille Dibona at an altitude of 2730m.
Overnight accommodation in dormitory (blankets provided, bring your own sheets), shared toilets and washbasins, no showers in the refuge. Hearty meals, picnics at lunchtime.

Transport and carbon footprint

Transport from the meeting point to the starting point of the course by car pooling among participants (or by Roc Ecrins if one of our vehicles is available).

Carbon footprint of the stay: 42 kg Co2

That’s the CO2 produced by our travels during your stay!

To join us :

Why not car pool or take the train ?

For information:

  • Paris - L’Argentière-La Bessée (710km) by overnight train !
  1. By train : 2,53 kgCo2
  2. By car : 137 kg CO2
  3. By electric car : 14,1 kgCO2
  • Lyon - L’Argentière-La Bessée (250 km)
  1. By train : 1,22 kgCo2
  2. By car : 48,4 kg CO2
  3. By electric car : 4,96 kgCO2
  • Marseille - L’Argentière-La Bessée (259km)
  1. By train : 0,88 kgCo2
  2. By car : 50,1 kgCO2
  3. By electric car : 5,13 kg CO2

Carpooling ? We can put you in touch with other participants. Contact us by email or telephone. https://www.blablacar.fr/

Offset your carbon emissions !

For every tree planted, 150 kg of CO2 are stored !
https://www.reforestaction.com/plan...

Meeting point

Meeting time:

9:30

the first day in the valley leading to La Bérarde, at the hamlet of Les Etages (38520 Saint Christophe-en-Oisans).

Meeting time:

7:15

For those arriving from the south of France, by train or car from Briançon, you can carpool with the guide from our offices in L’Argentière-La Bessée, 05120, Hautes Alpes.

Getting there

If you are coming to our office in L’Argentière-la-Bessée-la-Bessée:

by train,

The SNCF provides direct daily services from Paris, Marseille and Grenoble to L’Argentière-la-Bessée station.
PLEASE NOTE: the Pays des Ecrins station is called "L’Argentière les Ecrins". You must specify the full name of the station when booking, otherwise you may receive a ticket for "l’Argentière" station in Savoie.

  • TGV connection, Paris-Turin. Get off at Oulx then take the shuttle to Briançon and l’Argentière.
  • TGV connection, Paris-Valence or Paris-Grenoble with bus connections
  • Night trains from Paris and the East of France. Information www.sncf.connect.fr
  • from Nice, Marseille or Gap, regular bus services (www.autocars-scal.fr - 04 92 51 06 05)

If you are coming by car,

  • From the north, take the A48 motorway to Grenoble, then the Col du Lautaret (RN91). Drive through Briançon towards Gap. You enter the Pays des Écrins at Saint-Martin de Queyrières.
  • From Italy, take the A43 Maurienne motorway through the Fréjus tunnel, then the Col de Montgenèvre. Drive through Briançon towards Gap.
  • From the south, take the A51 motorway to La Saulce, then head for Briançon (RN 94). You enter the Pays des Écrins at La Roche de Rame.

Price

Price per person : 1180,00 €
Price includes:
  • Mountain guiding service , including their meals, overnight accommodation
  • Full board accommodation in mountain hut from the first evening to the lunch on day 4
  • Collective and safety equipment
  • Organisation and reservations (accommodation, guide, equipment) of your stay
Price does not include:
  • Picnic on the first day
  • Personal expenses: snacks, drinks, etc
  • Individual technical equipment rental
  • liability, repatriation and cancellation insurances
  • Transport to and from meeting point and during the stay
  • Organisation and reservations (accommodation, guide, gear) of your stay

Any other expenses not mentioned under the above section “the price includes”.

How to book

To book your trip :

  • complete the pre-registration form online
  • You will receive a booking contract by email. It sets out the details of your booking as well as the schedule and payment terms.
  • On receipt of this contract, the deposit of 30% must be payed within 4 days in accordance with the terms and conditions set out in the contract. Your registration can only be confirmed when the deposit has been payed.
  • The balance must be paid 45 days before the departure. Please note that any balance not paid within 45 days of departure will be considered as a cancellation of your booking. Financial withholding would therfore be applied in accordance with our terms and conditions of sale.
  • For a of a booking made less than 45 days before departure, the total amount of the booking must be paid on receipt of the booking contract in accordance with the terms and conditions set out therein.

Gear rental and Extras prices

  Equipment

Title Details Price
Baudrier + vache + mousqueton 4 jours
Baudrier
Vache
Mousqueton à vis
23.00 €
Casque 4 jours
Casque
19.00 €
Gore-tex jacket 4 days
Gore-tex jacket
29.00 €

  Accommodation

  Other